We were slow to rise on our first day in Punta Arenas. With nowhere left to ride, our plan that morning was to make no plans. The first few hours were whiled away around the kitchen table with another couple staying in the guesthouse. Walter and Anna-Marie, both in their seventies, had been born in…… Continue reading Dog on a Pier
Category: South America 2018
‘That’s Patagonia’
The wind had already begun to blow when we emerged from the tent, both of us suffering from a ‘Tyler Hamilton hangover.’ Knowing that we were leaving town in the same direction from which we’d arrived, the swirling leaves and swaying trees fuelled us with excitement rather than fear. We broke camp and rolled down…… Continue reading ‘That’s Patagonia’
The Pink Restaurant
El Chalten had been the last dot point on what had originally seemed like an endless list of ‘must see’ places along the journey. With this ‘list’ accomplished, neither of us had any lingering expectations or needs to fulfil. All that remained was the desire to maximise what was left of the time we had…… Continue reading The Pink Restaurant
Mountains From Movies
The alarm sounded particularly obnoxious the next morning. I must’ve been in the depths of my sleep cycle, as when I was jolted back into consciousness, I quickly became aware of the abundance of noise throughout the hostel. Heavy footsteps up and down the timber corridors, the rustling of gear being wrestled into backpacks, audible whispering from…… Continue reading Mountains From Movies
Deep South
Having left the bar a touch before midnight, we snuck back into the hostel as silently as possible in an attempt not to disturb other guests. The level of deftness and poise required to navigate the squeaky staircase made me feel like Catherine Zeta Jones in Entrapment, gliding gracefully between laser beams. In reality, I was…… Continue reading Deep South
A Five Star Life
The day began perfectly. I was woken by the warmth of the sun on my face and Dad, after a solid sleep and plenty of fluids, was claiming to be a picture of health. What he was lacking in appetite, he made up for with an overwhelming optimism about the day’s ride that lay ahead. We made…… Continue reading A Five Star Life
Gravel Dreams
It was clear when Dad woke up that he was anxious to get to a bike shop. We knew that the road quality was due to deteriorate south of Coyhaique and that ensuring our wheels were strong and able was paramount before continuing. However, cycle touring offers an unparalleled sense of freedom, so being reliant…… Continue reading Gravel Dreams
Bus Stops and Permaculture
A maelstrom of apprehension and hope swirled within as we slowly approached the site of the landslide. Despite the hostel owner being unable to provide us with any recent updates on the state of the road, we had decided to leave Puyuhaupi regardless. The rain had stopped overnight, and we were itching to get back…… Continue reading Bus Stops and Permaculture
Washed Out
Our night in Chaitén left me rested legs but painful stomach cramps. I managed to eat a little breakfast before we checked out of the hostel, cleaned our chains, and hit the road. The bent over position on the bike provided some slight relief but any real exertion caused the stabbing sensations to promptly return.…… Continue reading Washed Out
Dave and Nancy
It was mid-morning by the time we’d made our final visit to the buffet breakfast, packed the bikes, and decided what to do with the large cardboard box that Dad had used to transport his bike on the plane. After much deliberation and discussion, we left it in the room. Knowing how awkward it would…… Continue reading Dave and Nancy